Maui-based Fd ld Lidon Simon thought his grandfather’s pork recipe had gone down in history. He then traveled to the Philippines to design the “Family Recipes” section and realized that the recipe was exactly where his grandfather had left it.
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There is nothing like a pig in a big ciliary, know the Philippines.
It is the national food of the Philippines – you look from north to south – and it changes a little as you come.
My adobo is from the north. My grandparents grew up in Ilocos Norte in the northern Philippines. They caught fish in nearby rivers. They were surrounded by fields and many rice fields. And when they moved to Big Island [of Hawai‘i] In their 1930s, they planted vegetables in their new gardens, which they had planted since childhood. And they still cook Filipino food so we have been cooking Adobo in my family for years. Whenever there were large gatherings in the community, we would gather Adobo and still be a family.
I grew up on Big Island off the coast of Hamakua. My fondest memories are of my father helping me cook a pork chop for a high school graduation party, a wedding, or a birthday party. It was common for our family to cook for 300 to 400 people.
Even the smell brings me back to that time. Filipino food is always like that — it takes me home. And that unique scent of Adobo is boiling in the big ciliary. I love it.
Our favorite way is to make it with pork belly. It is always very rich and very fleshy and beautiful when folded slowly. I remember one night when I was a kid, we watered our pigs. Garlic, and bay leaf and pepper and [then] Stir in the soy sauce. When it is cooked, it smells bad when it is cooked.
My father was often in charge and was proud to teach him and me and my brother. We learned that he understood the smell of the ship. At some point, just by smelling, they know how delicious it is – and they know it will be delicious. Based on its scent, you can calculate the taste in your mind.
When I was born, my grandparents passed the torch and gave it to the cook. Often my grandparents would sit next to my father and uncles watching them cook these big pots [of food]. My brother and I were all overweight. We were little cooks. Well, like prep boys and gophers because “we go for this” and “we go for that”. But we were completely mixed. I think that’s why, in the end, inevitably, my brother and I became embarrassed.
Later, in my career, I moved away from these memories of growing up. I wanted to share my Filipino heritage with food. I started making my own Adobo, and that’s when I started talking to my dad about recipes.
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[The recipe] It came from my grandfather, his mother. She cooked a small amount. When my dad started cooking [adobo], Influenced by his brothers and uncles. His recipe has changed and I love that it has changed. But Grandpa never said he would ever duplicate it, so he explained how to do it.
He explains to me: “Soy thin is a lot ahead. There is a lot more pepper. ”He told me how she boiled everything, it produces this beautiful, shiny, and I work with love.
I thought, “OK, Is All I want is Adibo. What I want to learn is Adobo. ”What if we dragged him away? [the recipe] But that was not the case with my grandmother. About this time, she was diagnosed with Alzheimer’s disease and could not remember much. So we thought the main recipe was gone.
But then I started going to the Philippines [for the PBS show Family Recipes] To seek him. I don’t know, and my father was not there. So when I took Adobo as my food for the show, I wanted to see where my family came from and learn the Adobo style of their home. I wanted to see how it went.
[Soon after,] We fly to Manila. The city is home to millions of people, with motorcycles, trucks, and vans. There are road signs, but only suggestions on where to go. Everyone in the city builds his own chaos.
In just two or three hours, my grandmother moved to the northern part of the country.
As you drive north from Manila, the sounds of motorcycles and the madness of the streets begin to subside. [especially] Every time they moved away.
City streets turn into mountainous roads – it reminded me of the Big Island valleys. We were driving rice paddies along the road and at the top of the road. This was the Philippines I wanted to see.
I could not take my eyes off the window. We passed farmers through the swamps, and children ran along the road, playing with their water buffaloes. And here I took a picture of my grandparents growing up.
One of the first things we did in Bagio City was to go shopping. From the ground to the roof, thousands of people were threshing grain in vegetable gardens. It was strawberry season, so there were rows and rows of strawberries in all these different huts.
I saw everything that was growing in my grandparents’ backyard in Hawaii: Talon [a type of eggplant], Bitter watermelon, bitter pumpkins, pumpkins and pumpkins. [I saw] All these different varieties of long beans, cabbage and malt [a leafy vegetable]-They all grew up in their garden.
In another section were Longganisa, a sausage with Filipino sausages. One booth had an eight-foot-tall shed. These sausage sectors came down [the market] At least 50 yards – the curtains of Longganisa are still hanging.
The next day we went to the restaurant where we met Chef Nick. He is a well-known environmentalist in the same area as my grandparents, Elocos Norte. So he traveled all the way to Baghdad to cook.
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He showed us how to make this deep-fried pork belly bagati, which is unique to the region. He also cooked us pineapple, which is a bitter stew made from cow dung, so there is travel, liver and all that good stuff. It is one of the most powerful soups you will ever taste. And then to finish it all, the crown was pork chops.
He kept all the ingredients: pork belly, garlic, bay leaf, a little pepper, soybeans and grapes. Properly used for our home.
But then he started cooking. And that’s when Adobo changes the way I look at it forever. Instead of studying as we did, he began to cook the pork slowly in his own fat in a large silage. Then he roasted it and added the sauce, and it became a dark, crazy color that I had never seen before.
Suddenly something clicked in my mind. I thought, “Is this really happening? All I need is a recipe – what does my dad say? ”When my father remembered this missing recipe, he was talking about soy and‘ en ’ [the sauce]. When Nick Fick cooks, I pick it up. The tastes were different from what I was used to but they mimicked the story my father was telling [when he talks about] Grandpa Adobo-soybean forward – and that beautiful squash.
It was an adobo I had never tasted. As soon as I received this food for the first time, I felt like I was eating my grandfather’s Adobo, and I felt like a father when I was a child.
So all I could think about was, “Come home and I can’t wait to cook this for my dad.” I needed to know if this was true. But somewhere, I knew it had to be. This was the recipe we wanted.
[Later,] When I visited my father on the big island, The recipe will be held in our garage. That’s the place where he usually grows up and cooks. And I use something special: Cilicia, what my grandparents gave to my father. He is about 80 years old and must weigh thousands of pounds. My father looked at my shoulders and shook his head carefully. At first it was quiet, but after that first bite I saw his eyes light up. As I watched his reaction, I remembered that my hair stood on end. “This is my grandmother’s style,” he said.
Recipes returned to our family.
I now use this recipe when preparing meals for my friends and family. Not on the menu in my restaurant [Tin Roof] Regularly. But when it does, it’s very popular, so I have to do huge collections. And I always like to tell this story of how it has improved.
It’s crazy to think that one recipe has changed and improved over the last 30 years, and now it’s a full circle. This is how I think about food and recipes: food means evolution. And he does, often for the better. Often it is only compulsory.
As a result of evolution, some recipes are lost. I was fortunate enough to be able to retrieve my memory and keep my memory in full color and alertness. – As told by Angela Johnston
Ld Lidon Simon is twice High f f Last contestant, owner of a Maui-based tin roof restaurant, and chef Cook real Hawaii (March 2021, Clarkson Potter).
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